The disorder has been brought back. Manhattan's old-school Jewish delis are being transformed into "hot girl hangouts".
By New York's fashion elite, who are already well-known for guzzling whole milk and slurping oysters by the trayful.
The effort has been ongoing — curse you, Jake Gyllenhaal — as Bon Appétit recounts this week, but the trend picked up momentum this summer.
Beginning with that "secret" invite-only Diplo event at Katz's Deli that had a queue that ran around the block.
One month later, during New York Fashion Week, the designer Batsheva Hay made the surprising decision to present her spring 2023 collection at the Midtown site.
The final nail in the coffin was driven earlier this week when Grub Street declared that Eisenberg's, the iconic lunch counter that had recently reopened as S&P, had entered its "A24 era."
Whatever that means. Eisenberg's was backed by investor Nicholas "Cousin Greg" Braun & filmmaker Josh Safdie.